The pearl guide
What the millimetres mean, why luster matters more than size, and how to keep pearls from going dull.
Size: what a millimetre actually looks like
Pearl size is measured in diameter, in millimetres, usually as a range (8–9 mm) because no two pearls are identical. A 2 mm difference is roughly the step between “subtle” and “noticeable”.
| Size | Reads as | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 5–6 mm | Delicate, almost a bead | Second piercing, stacking, gifting for teens |
| 6–7 mm | Everyday small | Bracelets, subtle studs, office wear |
| 7–8 mm | The default | Rings, drop earrings, first pearl purchase |
| 8–9 mm | Clearly a pearl at a metre | Studs, pendants on most necklines |
| 9–10 mm | Statement but wearable | Pendants, evening earrings |
| 10–12 mm+ | Formal, high impact | Occasion strands, bold pendants |
Rule of thumb: the smaller the wearer and the shorter the neckline, the smaller the pearl that looks proportionate.
Luster beats size
Luster is the sharpness of light reflected off the surface. A 7 mm pearl with strong luster looks more expensive than a dull 11 mm one — and it is harder to find. When you compare two pieces, look at the reflection: the crisper the highlight, the better the pearl.
Surface quality is second. Small natural marks are normal and are not flaws in the way a scratch on glass is a flaw; large dull patches are what to avoid. Roundness comes third: perfectly round costs more, off-round is often more interesting and much cheaper.
Length: pick by neckline, not by number
| Length | Sits | Works with |
|---|---|---|
| 40 cm (16") | Base of the throat | Crew necks, collared shirts, high necklines |
| 45 cm (18") | On the collarbone | Almost everything — the safest length |
| 50 cm (20") | Just below the collarbone — the longest length we make | V necks, open shirts, layering |
| 60 cm (24") | Upper chest | Knits, layering over a longer chain |
Care: four habits, no products
Pearls are soft and porous. They do not need polish, and they should never see an ultrasonic cleaner.
- Last on, first off. Perfume, hairspray, sunscreen and cosmetics dull the nacre. Put jewellery on after these, take it off before removing them.
- Wipe, do not wash. A soft dry cloth after each wear is enough. If a pearl needs more, use a barely damp cloth and dry immediately.
- Keep away from chlorine and heat. No swimming, no sauna, no radiator shelf.
- Store flat, not hanging. Silk stretches under the weight of a hanging strand. Keep strands in the pouch, laid flat; keep chains clasped so they do not tangle.
On plating: 18k gold-plated pieces will eventually show wear at the points of contact — the same is true of every plated piece at any price. Keeping them dry and storing them separately roughly doubles the life of the plating, and plated brass can be re-plated rather than thrown away.
Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea
The four names you will see describe where and how the pearl grew, not a quality ranking. Freshwater pearls are farmed in mussels, usually in China, and are the most affordable and the most varied in shape. Akoya are small, very round and high-luster, farmed in salt water mainly in Japan and China. Tahitian pearls are large and naturally dark, from French Polynesia. South Sea pearls are the largest and rarest, from Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines.
Our collection is freshwater, chosen for luster and matched by hand. It is the honest way to sell real pearls at an everyday price.